Surfline Forecast - August 25th

August 26 2011 | Posted in Forecast, 

BRIEF OVERVIEW:  Strong SSW swell continues Friday as conditions clean up with wind shifting more ESE/E through the day. An even larger and very solid, long period SSW swell shows Saturday, fading Sunday. Another solid SSW swell could move in on Monday, before easing Tuesday. Moderate E trades prevail Saturday before backing down by the end of the weekend, with very light wind possible early next week. 

FRIDAY 26th 
SWELL/SURF: Solid SSW swell continues, gradually easing through the day, with 8-10’ surf and some possible bigger sets. Cleaning up from Wednesday through the day. First very long period signs of new SSW swell possibly starting to show around dark. 
WIND/WEATHER: Strong ESE/E trades 15-20kts+. Cloudy skies, with occasional showers. 

SATURDAY 27th 
SWELL/SURF: Major, long period SSW swell in the 12-15’+ range with some bigger sets. Stay tuned. 
WIND/WEATHER: E trades easing 15-18kts+. Partly cloudy skies with a few passing showers possible.

SUNDAY 28th
SWELL/SURF: SSW swell fading, but still very solid and in the 8-12’+ range in the morning, before coming down in the afternoon.   
WIND/WEATHER: Easing E trades 15kts+ in the morning, and lighter in the afternoon. Partly cloudy skies.

MONDAY 29th
SWELL/SURF: Slow decreasing trend continues from the weekend. Possible reinforcing SSW swell to keep the surf in the 8’+ range, however. Stay tuned. 
WIND/WEATHER: Very light E/ENE trades 5-10kts. Partly cloudy skies.

TUESDAY 30th
SWELL/SURF: Easing SSW swell in the 6’+ range. Stay tuned. 
WIND/WEATHER: Very light easterlies 6-10kts. Partly cloudy skies.

SWELL/WEATHER SUMMARY 

The swell that is on the rise today will fill in a bit more for Friday. We’ll see swell in the 8-10 range, with occasional larger sets. Conditions will also be cleaning up from today as wind trends more ESE-E through the day.  

An even stronger south-southwest swell will then move in on Saturday, from a large and intense storm now moving away from New Zealand. While the storm wasn’t pointed ideally at Tahiti (the strongest part of the swell will pass by to the east), it makes up for that with its very large size and strong wind, as we’ve seeing satellite confirmed wind of 35-55kts over a very large fetch and combined wave heights of 40-55’++. 

We may initially start to see some very long period forerunners (22”++) build late on Friday, although the swell will peak on Saturday. For Saturday we are looking at solid 10-15’+ swell, with larger sets very likely. This swell may be a little lully at times, but should offer very solid surf with plenty of waves in the sets, when the sets do arrive. 

Decreasing surf takes over on Sunday, but we’re still looking at swell in the 8-12’ range in the morning and getting smaller through the day. 

E trades will be easing over the weekend, still moderate in strength on Saturday, but getting much lighter through the day on Sunday. Early next week looks to see very light easterly wind ranging from ENE to E to ESE. 

Going further out, there is a good chance for another fairly solid SSW swell for Mon/Tue, the 29th-30th. Right now it looks like swell will be in the 8’+ range on Monday and getting smaller and around the 6’ range by Tuesday, but conditions look quite good with light wind. Stay tuned! 

Next Update: Friday afternoon, August 26th 

{REL[display_poll]DfYed8dvREL}

RELATED NEWS